The call of the wild!

As I mentioned in the last post about the Jungle Lodges resort, http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/05/bandipur-beckons-yet-again.html this was my third (and my son’s fourth) trip to Bandipur in the last few months, and the highlights of the trip are the jungle safaris. We always opt for Basavanna H.S-- the most knowledgeable, experienced and interested naturalist it has been our privilege to know. http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/another-unsung-heroa-naturalist-par.html

Before the evening safari on the day we reached, there was a hint of rain, but it passed quickly. It’s always a magical time as one heads out towards the jungle, surrounded by the distant hills, the forests on either side, and the boards saying “…be a silent passer” (though few maintain that!)

After registering the vehicle in the reception center, Basavanna drove in (he painstakingly takes a different path each time) to a jungle freshly awash with rain, redolent with the intoxicating smells of nature and a tang in the air that is alien to city dwellers. We were greeted by a solitary langur looking at us nonchalantly as he made himself comfortable against the branches! Next were herds of chital, gaur (the Indian bison) and elephants, some sambar, and of course, birds like the peacock and whopoe. On our last visit in April, we had come across just one herd of elephants (and the dramatic experience of a mock charge!) (see http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/bandipur-beckons-again.html) but this time there was a large number, and a couple of mothers hurrying their babies to safety. Apparently, the elephants which had migrated to Kabini earlier had come back, after a few showers promised more water and food! My aunt, being a thorough city bred, was extremely apprehensive and scared of the safari, but after seeing Basavanna’s expertise and skill, relaxed enough to enjoy it! After a while, we came out on to the highway and crossed over to the other side—back again and to the opposite side—Basavanna does not spare the slightest effort to cover as much as he can, and all the while, with the utmost patience and cheer.

Apart from the wildlife, I am always fascinated by the different shades of green in the jungle, the lovely, rough winding paths and the play of light and color when the sun’s rays stream through the leaves, and the light of the setting sun casting a surreal glow over the vegetation and water holes.

The next morning safari was equally rewarding---herds of chital, gaur, sambar, birds and of course, elephants, some at the salt licks provided by the forest department. One of the herds, accompanied by 2 babies, wanted to cross the road, and when Basavanna reversed the jeep to give us a better view, protested (twice!) with a mock charge! It was indeed a bit scary, but after having seen his adroit handling of a similar situation last time, we were quite confident! Credit must also be given to him for my aunt succumbing to the magic of the forest, even after this incident! My photography skills and small digital camera are both very limited! but after handing it over to Basavanna (a very accomplished photographer) at the most picturesque moments, got some wonderful images, which you can see here—including the little turtle, still as a stone by the path. For graphic images of the inhabitants of the jungle, see this : http://www.indianaturewatch.net/view_cat.php?tag=Basavanna+H+S As I have said in earlier posts, seeing a predator would be a bonus, but it is really not important in the context of the vast treasures of the jungle.

There was just one sad note in the day—the sight of a solitary elephant in pain, a result of the firecrackers planted underground by villagers to stop elephants raiding their crops. At first sight, we did not notice anything amiss, but Basavanna’s keen eyes detected the swollen mouth and dribble. It slowly made its way to a salt lick, watched by a gorgeous peacock perched overhead. It was a poignant sight, and one that for me at least, cast a shadow over the beauty and enjoyment of the wild. If only human beings practised some compassion and tolerance and thought of alternative means to deter animals, instead of inflicting pain and injury and threatening their very existence.

I’ve always enjoyed reading and teaching John Masefield’s poem “Sea Fever”, but only now do I truly understand what he meant by---“It’s a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied”! This time I will not end by saying that chances of going back are dim, for we are already planning the next visit—the lure of the jungle grows stronger! I still hope that some of my "online friends" will visit one day--once you experience the beauty and magic of the Indian jungle and see the magnificent wild creatures in their natural habitat, life is never the same again!
See more of my travel reviews at http://www.trazzler.com/users/nitam and http://www.tripadvisor.in/members-reviews/nita55

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.......Bandipur National Park

Bandipur Tiger Reserve or National park is nestled at the foot of the Blue Mountains, the common name for the Nilgiris, and spreads over 880 sq km.
There is a wide range of vegetation: scrub forest, dry and moist deciduous forests, so home to a variety of animals. Bandipur is one of the most popular wildlife sanctuaries in India, with the highest density of Indian tigers and 1/5th of the world’s Asiatic elephants. Other animals found here are gaur, sambar, chital, wild boar, wild dog and leopard. Langurs (a species of monkeys), swinging from the branches, are very common!

As I mentioned in the last post, we stayed at the Jungle Lodges resort, and part of the program is jeep safaris into the jungle twice a day, accompanied by trained naturalists. We chose an open jeep, but the top had to be covered because of the rain. However, it lashed against the sides, and very soon I was pretty much drenched! This was repeated the next morning, but well worth it! It was an incredible experience, thanks to Basavanna (the naturalist I referred to in the last post)who drove the jeep.

The dirt roads through the forest are winding, very rocky and narrow, and one can just admire the skill of the drivers, who also have to drive without lights (so as not to disturb the animals) in the pitch darkness. In some parts, it is pretty dark even during the day! Unfortunately, our safari was on a wet, gloomy day, as you can see from the rain spattered photos, as dark as the woods!

Chital or spotted deer can be seen in large numbers; we saw them in the evening, and then again the next morning, amidst the constant drizzle and mist.

The gaur, sometimes called the Indian bison, was massive, but it moved with amazing speed. Another one, seen later in the evening, seemed annoyed at the attention, and for a moment, we thought it was going to give the charge. One wonders how the animals feel, being pursued by jeep loads of curious and persistent visitors, armed with sophisticated (and some,like me, with basic) cameras and other equipment!

Suddenly, we spotted a pair of sloth bear, the only bear found in South India. Next, we came across a couple of beautiful, red Asiatic wild dogs (Dhole). The highlight of the sightings was a sleek leopard gracefully sauntering across the bushes, its magnificent coat acting as a camouflage. Unfortunately, the fading light and speed of the animal's movements prevented us from clicking any photos. Hopefully next time! It must be mentioned that we were able to see such rare animals largely due to Basavanna's enthusiasm and efforts.

There are also over 300 species of birds, seen specially in the early morning. The next morning, we spotted many of them, again thanks to Basavana, who drove into the most likely habitats, and also told us about the birds. A more interested and knowlegeable naturalist is hard to find. The photo of the peacock perched majestically on the tree in the center does not do justice to its gorgeous plumage--but it was too far off, and the light was poor. Finally, the lone cormorant keeping a watchful eye from its perch in the center of the dam.
The magic of the forests has to be felt to be believed.......