Bandipur beckons again!

On April 9, we went back to Bandipur National Park, which I had written about in November 2009 ( http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2009/11/woods-are-lovely-dark-and-deep_09.html)
This time we decided on a longer stay of 2 nights and 3 days at the Jungle Lodges resort. The place has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and after settling in, a sumptuous lunch and a quick tea, it was time for the evening safari. On our earlier trip, we had been very impressed by the knowledge, professionalism and interest of one of the naturalists who accompany visitors, (that makes a big difference) and we asked to go with Basavanna again (as does anyone on a repeat visit!) for all the trips, which are truly the high points of the visit.

There were a few light showers early in the evening, but that did not deter the herds of chital (spotted deer), some sambar, peacocks and other birds, and finally, a herd of elephants. Suddenly, one made what is called a mock charge, which Basavanna handled adroitly, while telling us that it was the “aunty” who was making the charge! Apparently, the mother stays with the calf while the aunt wards of danger. After a while, the herd moved to one side, while we got to see one at close range. All the while, Basavanna and the 3 avid bird watchers in our jeep pointed out a number of colorful birds, including some rare ones. The sunset cast a magical glow over the forest, and we returned to the resort for an evening program of a documentary, multi course dinner, bonfire, and finally, the restful sleep which can come only in such a place.

The morning began with another safari, and another magical round through the forest, resounding with the sounds of birds and insects. The early morning mist adds to the atmosphere, and Basavanna seemed to know just where the birds were to be found. Back to a lavish breakfast, and then a drive up to the Gopalaswamy hill/temple high up, with a panoramic view of the countryside. The second evening safari was every bit as interesting and enjoyable. My purely functional and jaded city mind was highlighted when I thought Basavanna was checking the jeep tyre periodically, not realizing he was checking for pug marks to follow the tiger’s trail!! As we were on the way back to the resort, he heard that a tiger was in the bushes, waiting to come out. Basavanna turned around and tried every path possible to see if the tiger could be spotted. Apparently, it had come out, seen the number of vehicles on the highway and retreated, and one can only empathize with the animal! so we were not really disappointed, though people usually think that should be the sole reason for going to Bandipur! The jungle has so much more to offer, even if no large animals are sighted---the play of light and color among the trees, from the first rays of the sun suffusing the forests and highlighting the various shades of green (and black and gray where forest fires have occurred) to the setting sun which casts a magical glow, the different water holes reflecting the trees on their banks, which are home to so many birds….the beauty and peace of the forest have to be experienced to be believed. The winding rough paths, branching off in different directions (Basavanna always seemed to choose the most picturesque one full of possibilities) reminded me of Robert Frost’s “Two roads” and “the road less travelled”! On the way home, we saw a solitary langur (monkey) sitting by the roadside, wrapped in pensive thought, and a group of chital crossing the road, in the face of fast traffic. This is just one instance of the disregard for rules and the safety of wildlife—on the highway, there was blatant use of horns (signs say “Be a silent passer”) high speeds (sign says to drive slowly, as animals may be crossing) cars parked (sign says it’s dangerous to stop the car) and people even out of the vehicle for a smoke. The worst was that of a couple of people in a car trying to feed a chital that had come too close to the road. At each instance, Basavanna had to stop and admonish the offenders, but there are very few who bother.

The next morning saw us back again for a last safari, and we were richly rewarded by a variety of birds, starting with a lapwig family. Basavanna said that he had seen 5 eggs a few days before, and sure enough, 3 of the little ones were trying out their feet. He showed us one egg almost merging with a stone—it took a while before our tired city eyes could spot it. In a short while, the mother had gathered her babies under her wing, till they were no longer visible! It was only his expertise and perseverance that got us a good look at a pair of dhole (wild dogs). The grand finale was a peacock dancing to attract peahens—the splendour of it cannot be described in words—it was mesmerizing, and thanks to Basavanna, who got some very good shots even with my basic digital camera! (The photos of the peacock dancing and the dhole were taken by him) A little later, there was another one, sitting in solitary splendour on the branch of a tall tree. As the sun rose higher in the sky, we left with a last look at the forest-—it’s so easy to understand what Frost meant by the woods being “lovely, dark and deep”. The 2 days passed by too fast, certainly too little a time to soak in the soothing beauty and serenity of the wild. Chances seem dim, but I still hope that we can one day, once again, follow the call of the wild!

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.......Bandipur National Park

Bandipur Tiger Reserve or National park is nestled at the foot of the Blue Mountains, the common name for the Nilgiris, and spreads over 880 sq km.
There is a wide range of vegetation: scrub forest, dry and moist deciduous forests, so home to a variety of animals. Bandipur is one of the most popular wildlife sanctuaries in India, with the highest density of Indian tigers and 1/5th of the world’s Asiatic elephants. Other animals found here are gaur, sambar, chital, wild boar, wild dog and leopard. Langurs (a species of monkeys), swinging from the branches, are very common!

As I mentioned in the last post, we stayed at the Jungle Lodges resort, and part of the program is jeep safaris into the jungle twice a day, accompanied by trained naturalists. We chose an open jeep, but the top had to be covered because of the rain. However, it lashed against the sides, and very soon I was pretty much drenched! This was repeated the next morning, but well worth it! It was an incredible experience, thanks to Basavanna (the naturalist I referred to in the last post)who drove the jeep.

The dirt roads through the forest are winding, very rocky and narrow, and one can just admire the skill of the drivers, who also have to drive without lights (so as not to disturb the animals) in the pitch darkness. In some parts, it is pretty dark even during the day! Unfortunately, our safari was on a wet, gloomy day, as you can see from the rain spattered photos, as dark as the woods!

Chital or spotted deer can be seen in large numbers; we saw them in the evening, and then again the next morning, amidst the constant drizzle and mist.

The gaur, sometimes called the Indian bison, was massive, but it moved with amazing speed. Another one, seen later in the evening, seemed annoyed at the attention, and for a moment, we thought it was going to give the charge. One wonders how the animals feel, being pursued by jeep loads of curious and persistent visitors, armed with sophisticated (and some,like me, with basic) cameras and other equipment!

Suddenly, we spotted a pair of sloth bear, the only bear found in South India. Next, we came across a couple of beautiful, red Asiatic wild dogs (Dhole). The highlight of the sightings was a sleek leopard gracefully sauntering across the bushes, its magnificent coat acting as a camouflage. Unfortunately, the fading light and speed of the animal's movements prevented us from clicking any photos. Hopefully next time! It must be mentioned that we were able to see such rare animals largely due to Basavanna's enthusiasm and efforts.

There are also over 300 species of birds, seen specially in the early morning. The next morning, we spotted many of them, again thanks to Basavana, who drove into the most likely habitats, and also told us about the birds. A more interested and knowlegeable naturalist is hard to find. The photo of the peacock perched majestically on the tree in the center does not do justice to its gorgeous plumage--but it was too far off, and the light was poor. Finally, the lone cormorant keeping a watchful eye from its perch in the center of the dam.
The magic of the forests has to be felt to be believed.......