Following the trails of Veerappan!

From Bandipur, we visited the K.Gudi Wilderness camp, within the limits of a wildlife sanctuary. (See http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/08/fun-at-wilderness-camp.html

The BRT wildlife sanctuary is thickly forested with deciduous and evergreen trees, and was once home to the notorious brigand Veerapan (as was also Bandipur!) It boasts of varied wildlife—elephants, gaur, wild boar, chital, barking deer and the elusive tiger and leopard, with superb views of the misty BR hills. It is also a bird watcher’s paradise, hosting more than 270 species like Malabar whistling thrush, scarlet minivet, Malabar parakeet, woodpecker, and owls and eagles.

Our safaris with Thapa, the old driver who has been at K.Gudi for 13 years, was enjoyable, though he felt his reputation had suffered since he couldn’t “show” us a tiger!! It is refreshing to see the kind of passion people in these places have for wildlife and bring to their work. We were able to reassure him that it did not matter, as we had had a good view of a leopard sauntering down the main road as we were approaching the camp that afternoon! Basavanna being with us for all the safaris made them special, like the safaris at Bandipur (minus Gowri the tigress, of course!)


The in-house naturalist Lokesh is a good host and also took us for very enjoyable safaris. It is creditable how he maneuvered the heavy vehicle with (weighty!) passengers on dirt paths, rendered even more inaccessible after the rains. The narrow winding hill paths sometimes have to be cleared of fallen trees. Traveling up the hills with a sheer drop on one side and a sublime view of the misty, blue hills is an indescribable experience.



We stopped at a water hole known to be visited by tigers, and though alarm calls were heard, the lord of the jungle eluded us! (Of course, that could have been due to a noisy family party who came in another jeep!) We too had a very excitable gentleman in our party, who almost yelled out in excitement at the sight of a lone deer, and even got off a couple of times, much to the consternation of the naturalists, since it is against the rules of a safari.



We spotted plenty of chital, barking deer (which we had not seen at Bandipur), some gaur, a lone elephant at a distance and a variety of birds. As I always say, sighting animals is a bonus; the jungle has its own magic and so much more to offer!

Where angels fear to tread........

I had ended one of my earlier posts, http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/snippets-from-bandipur_19.html
with a wish “I hope to meet her someday”! My wish came true last week, when thanks to Basavanna (my regular readers know him as our good friend and finest naturalist in Bandipur) I finally met Sunita Dhairyam, popularly known as Sunni. We drove through some rough village roads and non-existent ones over fields to reach her artistically designed house, (amidst scenic surroundings) in Mangala village, Bandipur. We were welcomed by the concerted barks of eight dogs of all sizes and breeds—and later heard that they were all abandoned and found a loving home with her. The petite and attractive lady who greeted us warmly seemed so unassuming that though I had heard of her achievements from Basavanna, hearing the details from her strengthened my belief that our country is full of unsung heroes/heroines who make a difference, quietly, simply because of their passion and commitment to a cause/causes. A lone woman fighting all odds single handedly, Sunita has truly reached “where angels fear to tread”--I honestly cannot think of another person that I know who has done what she has. A humanitarian, wildlife lover, conservationist and immensely talented artist are just some of the terms that describe her, but what is even greater are her courage, determination and passion to fulfill her dreams. Many of us may have the passion or urge to do something, but not the courage or grit to follow through

This is her story in brief.

She had a passion for the wild from childhood, and her immense artistic talent is God gifted, without any formal training. Her aunt is a wildlife photographer, while her grandmother was a wildlife artist in Bangalore. Sunita lived in Zambia as a child, returned to school in hometown Bangalore, then Shimla and college at Delhi. Back to Bangalore and a short stint at Kabini River Lodge (also a Jungle Lodges resort) before leaving for US. Ten interesting years there, as a freelance artist working on murals in diverse locations like the Stillwater theater in Minnesota, and the Bilibong sports bar in Bloomington, near Minneapolis. The latter being a center for the Hmong community (from S.E. Asia), there was a popular weekend farmers’ market, which allowed Sunita to display her creativity with items like hand painted wine glass sets!

In 1995, she returned to India, and in September, bought land in Mangala village, Bandipur, then one of the haunts of the infamous brigand Veerapan. Then began a long and ardous struggle to build on it and establish herself in a man’s world (and the journey continues!) due to her own determination and her mother’s encouragement. Thanks to the support of officials of the forest department, she took up odd painting assignments while overseeing the building of a room to live in. For a whole year, there was no electricity or running water, but she did not give up, despite the hostility of some (even prominent) people around. She also took up the paintings in the Bandipur Safari Lodges cottages (under Jungle Lodges & Resorts)—actually, this was my first introduction to her! Since we stayed in the elephant cottage (see photo) painted by her, (with matching motifs on the linen and curtains) I asked Basavanna about the artist and was astounded by what he told me, and requested him to fix a meeting with her on my next visit.
The tiger, leopard and gaur cottages are equally impressive. Incidentally, the elephant took 3 months to be completed, difficult as it was to work intermittently, only when there were no guests. It was also an ardous task, considering the height and size of the wall---the outline of the elephant was done earlier, and the details filled in later, while the background was done free hand. A close up of the painting leaves one incredulous and speechless! Sunita spent two years completing the paintings for Jungle Lodges. (see http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/08/amazing-creations-by-sunita-dhairyam.html

In 2006, she set up the Mariamma Charitable Trust, with Shree Devi and (Late) Dr. A.R.Pai (who had earlier set up a free clinic with Sunita's help under their organization Ammembal Medical Charities).

Her work now encompasses a number of areas, the main thrust being the improvement of the lives of the villagers around (from 15 “dung” villages, including 7 tribal hamlets), conservation and minimizing man-animal conflict, so common in areas close to forests like the Bandipur National park. The trust compensates villagers for any loss suffered from wild animals, to discourage them from harming the animals. She hopes to provide facilities and build a community that will live in harmony with and respect the rights of animals. Apart from providing medical aid to the villagers, Sunita seeks to empower and uplift youngsters by helping poor students to get an education. She tries to raise awareness of sustainable living for farmers, and hopes that more solar fences will prevent the human-elephant conflict that results in fatalities for both.

Twice a year, she undertakes immunization (at a huge cost) of rural dogs for birth control and to prevent the spread of diseases like rabies. This serves a twofold purpose: prevent the growth of numbers of village dogs, and lessen the impact of their diseases on wildlife. The number of dogs attended to during the last drive was 93! She is helped in this venture by IPAN (Indian project for animals and nature), who have trained personnel like dog catchers.

Sunita has employed a local boy to help her in the administration, and has the unstinting support and admiration of the people around, which allows her to carry on successfully despite the lack of support and even hostility of vested parties in the area. A sad comment on our society!

Sunita decided to use her innate skills to design and sell products to finance her projects, and so Temple Tree Designs was born in 2006. She conceives a product from start to finish, with the first sketches to the final product manufactured in Tirupur, near Coimbatore. (This indomitable lady has even spent 3 months in a factory learning the ropes!) Today she has a vast range of artistic products (with wildlife motifs)—t shirts, jackets, key chains, jackets, mugs, durees, table mat sets etc, and is now launching towels. These are available (along with items like photos and paintings by local artists) at the Souvenir shop near the Bandipur Forest Reception center. (see photos and http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/08/amazing-creations-by-sunita-dhairyam.html

Sunita works out of a pretty little “office” which bears the unmistakable stamp of her creativity and passion. As we sat sipping coffee in her artistically decorated little veranda with a scenic view, and listened to Sunita’s experiences (with one of her dogs happily nuzzling up to her!) I realized that whatever I say will fall far short of what she has achieved, single handedly, with incredible passion, grit and perseverance, choosing the path less taken in favor of a comfortable life anywhere else in the world. We can do our bit by not just admiring her, but giving support in whatever little way we can., for it is only people like her who champion the cause of the marginalized population and voiceless animals, both of which are integral to the fabric of our lives.

Look for details of Sunita’s work and other background information on the site
www.templetreedesigns.com

This post is also under
http://makeadifference-nita.blogspot.com/
http://makeadifference-nita.blogspot.com/2010/08/lone-womans-campaign-for-man-and.html

Amazing creations by Sunita Dhairyam!

One can only marvel at the skill, talent and effort of this immensely talented artist and conservationist, who has dedicated her life for the welfare of the villagers and wildlife of Bandipur. These are glimpses of the paintings on the cottage walls of the Jungle Lodges resort cottages and products on sale (to finance her projects) at the Souvenir shop .

Hope for jumbos!

Many of us carry pepper sprays as protection, but a spray to ward off rampaging elephants! Well, this is the novel concept developed by Rana Singh, who launched his brand Cobra Pepper Sprays in September 2002. News items on the rising rate of crime and subsequent research led him to develop the first pepper spray in India, and this got a fillip from the Police Commissioner of Bangalore. Needless to say, it found a ready market, despite Rana’s low profile and lack of blatant publicity. I first heard of it in a small snippet in a national newspaper, and requested a piece. Since then, I have gifted them to friends, and the demand grows, especially for single women living alone in cities like Delhi.

However, it was only during a recent meeting with Rana that I heard about the elephant spray, which promises to be a boon in reducing the human-elephant conflict that claims the lives of both in India. After a personal experience of a family member during the Mumbai terrorist attack on the Taj hotel, he modified the regular pepper spray into a pepper grenade, that would be non-explosive, and act as a “neutralizer”, much like a tear gas shell.

Consequently, the idea of the elephant spray was conceived after a visit to Coorg. A friend told him of an attack by an elephant on a forest guard, and that human-elephant conflict was on the rise. He learnt that villagers often throw firecrackers to scare away elephants, injuring them and inviting aggression. Moreover, sometimes the elephant continues to feed on the crops for a while before being scared off. The electric fence too claims elephant lives regularly.

Being a follower of Discovery and National Geographic channels, Rana knew the basic facts about elephants --its memory is legendary, and sense of smell 137 times stronger than that of humans. It would be logical to develop a spray that would utilise these two facts to discourage them, without causing injury or triggering aggression and loss of human life. The Pepper Grenade (with concentrated extracts of chilly powder in a can) has to be opened and thrown near the elephants; this will emit an irritating smell, prompting the elephant to move away. Its strong memory will prevent it from returning to the spot again. The repellent can spread up to 8 feet. There is no direct contact with or pain to the elephant, and the deterrent keeps the elephant and humans apart.

The Tamil Nadu forest department has used this on a trial basis, with promising results, so we hope it will not be long before this method is adopted by wildlife sanctuaries to safeguard both elephants and human beings. It is only concern and innovation like this that can save our wildlife from extinction. Wishing Rana every success!

In case of queries, he can be contacted at:
Aax Global,Bangalore
Mobile:+ 91 9342537713
Email- cobra_sds@yahoo.co.in
URL- www.cobraspray.com

The call of the wild!

As I mentioned in the last post about the Jungle Lodges resort, http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/05/bandipur-beckons-yet-again.html this was my third (and my son’s fourth) trip to Bandipur in the last few months, and the highlights of the trip are the jungle safaris. We always opt for Basavanna H.S-- the most knowledgeable, experienced and interested naturalist it has been our privilege to know. http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/another-unsung-heroa-naturalist-par.html

Before the evening safari on the day we reached, there was a hint of rain, but it passed quickly. It’s always a magical time as one heads out towards the jungle, surrounded by the distant hills, the forests on either side, and the boards saying “…be a silent passer” (though few maintain that!)

After registering the vehicle in the reception center, Basavanna drove in (he painstakingly takes a different path each time) to a jungle freshly awash with rain, redolent with the intoxicating smells of nature and a tang in the air that is alien to city dwellers. We were greeted by a solitary langur looking at us nonchalantly as he made himself comfortable against the branches! Next were herds of chital, gaur (the Indian bison) and elephants, some sambar, and of course, birds like the peacock and whopoe. On our last visit in April, we had come across just one herd of elephants (and the dramatic experience of a mock charge!) (see http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/bandipur-beckons-again.html) but this time there was a large number, and a couple of mothers hurrying their babies to safety. Apparently, the elephants which had migrated to Kabini earlier had come back, after a few showers promised more water and food! My aunt, being a thorough city bred, was extremely apprehensive and scared of the safari, but after seeing Basavanna’s expertise and skill, relaxed enough to enjoy it! After a while, we came out on to the highway and crossed over to the other side—back again and to the opposite side—Basavanna does not spare the slightest effort to cover as much as he can, and all the while, with the utmost patience and cheer.

Apart from the wildlife, I am always fascinated by the different shades of green in the jungle, the lovely, rough winding paths and the play of light and color when the sun’s rays stream through the leaves, and the light of the setting sun casting a surreal glow over the vegetation and water holes.

The next morning safari was equally rewarding---herds of chital, gaur, sambar, birds and of course, elephants, some at the salt licks provided by the forest department. One of the herds, accompanied by 2 babies, wanted to cross the road, and when Basavanna reversed the jeep to give us a better view, protested (twice!) with a mock charge! It was indeed a bit scary, but after having seen his adroit handling of a similar situation last time, we were quite confident! Credit must also be given to him for my aunt succumbing to the magic of the forest, even after this incident! My photography skills and small digital camera are both very limited! but after handing it over to Basavanna (a very accomplished photographer) at the most picturesque moments, got some wonderful images, which you can see here—including the little turtle, still as a stone by the path. For graphic images of the inhabitants of the jungle, see this : http://www.indianaturewatch.net/view_cat.php?tag=Basavanna+H+S As I have said in earlier posts, seeing a predator would be a bonus, but it is really not important in the context of the vast treasures of the jungle.

There was just one sad note in the day—the sight of a solitary elephant in pain, a result of the firecrackers planted underground by villagers to stop elephants raiding their crops. At first sight, we did not notice anything amiss, but Basavanna’s keen eyes detected the swollen mouth and dribble. It slowly made its way to a salt lick, watched by a gorgeous peacock perched overhead. It was a poignant sight, and one that for me at least, cast a shadow over the beauty and enjoyment of the wild. If only human beings practised some compassion and tolerance and thought of alternative means to deter animals, instead of inflicting pain and injury and threatening their very existence.

I’ve always enjoyed reading and teaching John Masefield’s poem “Sea Fever”, but only now do I truly understand what he meant by---“It’s a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied”! This time I will not end by saying that chances of going back are dim, for we are already planning the next visit—the lure of the jungle grows stronger! I still hope that some of my "online friends" will visit one day--once you experience the beauty and magic of the Indian jungle and see the magnificent wild creatures in their natural habitat, life is never the same again!
See more of my travel reviews at http://www.trazzler.com/users/nitam and http://www.tripadvisor.in/members-reviews/nita55

Bandipur beckons yet again!

My post of April 15 was titled “Bandipur beckons again” and I ended by saying that chances of going back were dim!! But here we were, back again on May 4, the third trip in six months –need I say more! This was a sudden and short trip, mainly to accompany a visiting uncle and aunt from Kolkata, but also because one doesn’t need an excuse to go to Bandipur! My regular readers/friends will know that the central figure in our Bandipur safaris is Basavanna H.S, the naturalist, whom I’ve written about earlier (http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/another-unsung-heroa-naturalist-par.html) So we first had to check if he would be free, and then check the accomodation, as this is the busy season. However, thanks to the help and efficiency of Manjunath of Jungle Lodges resorts, we booked cottages for a night. Being at the resort is always such a pleasure—one gets the warmest welcome, the best of accommodation, facilities and meals amidst very homely surroundings, and of course, the natural beauty and weather add to the experience. This post is especially for those who have not seen my two earlier posts on Bandipur--the last one at http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/04/bandipur-beckons-again.html.(Note for my online friends abroad, at blogit and AC, and specially Betty, Stanis and Janice-—I hope this tempts you to visit India!)

The Bandipur Safari Lodge is part of the Jungle Lodges and Resorts organization, and is the first one as you reach the area. There are 12 ordinary and 10 special cottages, but only in name, the ordinary ones too are no less special! The 12 are named after wild animals—dhole, tiger, chital etc. Some of them have the murals of the animals painted on the inner walls, (with matching linen and curtains) and are truly works of art. Last time was the elephant cottage, and this time we stayed at the chital cottage, with a spectacular mural(see photo)painted by Sangeetha Kadur. The special cottages are named after birds of the area. The landscaping is very aesthetic and well maintained. Flowers of every hue add splashes of color to the scene. A circular “gol ghar” is the setting for the elaborate and sumptuous buffet meals, of excellent quality, variety and service. Moreover, at one end of the buffet table, chefs prepare customised dhosas, omelettes and the like! (There is also a restaurant called Pugmarks for day visitors).

After checking in at 12 noon, there’s ample time to freshen up and walk around till lunch at 1.30 pm. Hammocks and benches near the cottages invite one to spend a lazy afternoon under the trees! Any direction that one looks out to affords scenic views of the hills and countryside. After a quick tea at 4, it’s time for the jungle safari in a jeep (or van if there are large numbers) with a naturalist—it is an immeasurably enriching experience. (Read about this on http://colorsofindia-nita.blogspot.com/2010/05/call-of-wild.html) One is pampered again with hot tea/coffee and delectable snacks on return, around 7 pm.
The resort has a conference center (with an attached bar) where a wildlife documentary is screened at 7.30, before dinner. We have seen different ones on the last 3 visits, all really worth watching. After a very elaborate and multi-course dinner, one can sit around a bonfire, under a clear starry sky, or retire to bed, lulled by natural sounds, a reprieve from the TV and music which is by default a part of our noisy city lives.

The morning is an early start, with tea at 6 am followed by another jungle safari. Those that wish can opt for a nature walk/trek with a naturalist. This time we met another naturalist, Gurudutt, who has joined Bandipur recently--it is heartening to see young people following their passion for nature and trying to safeguard our wildlife. All good things come to an end, so after a breakfast fit for a king, it’s time to say good bye.(The 2 day program includes a drive (after breakfast) up to Gopalaswamy Betta, the highest peak, which affords a panoramic view of the countryside below. An ancient Chola temple is also an attraction there).

Apart from the accommodation and facilities, the service at Jungle Lodges is excellent, and the staff extremely courteous, professional and helpful, exuding a rare warmth.

Warning: Bandipur is addictive! you will want to return again and again!