The best of 2012 in Delhi!

Just a few of the memorable programs which take place through the year..... Classical concerts in the open air at Nehru park (one of the many parks in the city)known as "Music in the park" where the best musicians perform, and anyone can walk in, entry free. Sufi concerts, including a mesmerizing performance by the Whirling dervishes from Egypt, against the backdrop of the historical Old Fort; legendary performer Abida Parveen (from Pakistan) at the Jahan-e-Khusrau festival against the backdrop of Arab ki sarai in the Humayun's tomb complex. Other noted artists from abroad, like a noted Bangladeshi exponent of Tagore songs....others with unique instruments, like the and even a taste of Mozart. Literature is not neglected either, with book readings and discussions by eminent writers like William Dalyrimple, who have made Delhi their home, Stephen Alter etc. There is always something happening somewhere in the city, leaving us quite spoilt for choice!

On a Sufi trail.....

To carry on from my post on the Nizamuddin mela, here's a selection of the little known Sufi shrines in the area.....small, artistic and radiating an atmosphere that words fail to describe. Our first stop was at Dargah Hazrat Khwaja Shaikh--belonging to Ala-ud-din's time. At certain times, salt oozes out of the tiled interiors, and we were lucky that it was one of those times. Next, at the Dargah Bhoore Shah Baba, an unassuming shrine on a busy main road, which we have all passed countless times...but how many of us have ever stopped? A short rickshaw ride down the road, circling the Sabz Burj, takes us to Dargah Patesha, named after a Sufi saint who legend says hid among the leaves when visitors came! There is a 700 year old tree near the tomb. The road running parallel to the walls of Humayun's tomb has some gems on either side--including an impressive monument which is the tomb of an unknown person, and further ahead, the Dargah of Jalal ud din Shami. Come back to the main road, and a short distance away is the "Khanqah and Chilla" of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, where the greatest Sufi saint of Delhi/Nizamuddin spent 66 years of his life. One can pass through a gateway, past the mosque, and enter the small room where the saint prayed and meditated. A little further ahead is a Sikh gurudwara, and down the road, the pretty Neeli Gumbad, of blue tiles

Hues of Karnataka!

My friends, particularly those on "Blogit" may remember that I was working on a guidebook of Karnataka....well, it's finally been published, and available at these links: For Amazon, please use: http://www.guidegecko.com/karnataka-app.kindle For Apple iBooks, please use: http://www.guidegecko.com/karnataka-app.ibook On iTunes, http://www.guidegecko.com/iphone-app.html http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/hues-of-karnataka-nita-mukherjee/1113533368?ean=9789810741686 Do check it out!

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Updates from Delhi

Back again after a long gap, mainly due to the constant reminders from my online friends! Delhi is a vibrant city, with all kinds of programs and activities, concerts and festivals, and it comes alive even more during this season. With our extreme climate, most months in the year are pretty hot and humid, so we make the most of this time, specially to go on guided "heritage" walks (which are held throughout the year) around a historical city dotted with monuments and shrines. I plan to post some photos every month of what's taking place, and to make a start, here are a few from November. The gaily bedecked "cycle rickshaws" (an old, and even now popular mode of transport in some parts of Delhi!) took us on a "Sufi trail" to little known shrines in the Nizamuddin area of New Delhi. In the backdrop is a monument called the "Sabz Burz", an enigmatic presence in the middle of swirling traffic.

The tour, which was part of the annual Nizamuddin mela, was followed by a magical, open air concert by a well known group called the Niazi brothers, against the backdrop of the historical "Chauasath Khamba". The Sufis believe music leads to the Divine, and it was easy to feel that. On the way home, we stopped at one of the numerous little shops which make Nizamuddin a favorite haunt! The hot "rotis" (Indian bread) served with mutton kebabs are a gourmet's delight! Here you see our rotis being prepared. The colorful folk dance was part of the Uttarakhand (a state in north India) festival at the Dilli Haat (you may remember photos from an old post)--a popular open air venue where thematic festivals are held. Next week, I will post some photos from recent heritage walks, so do come back! On another topic, you may remember my posts about the sterling work of artist-conservationist Sunitha Dhairyam. Well, she's now a member of "Artists for conservation"---do check out the link: http://www.natureartists.com/sunita_dhairyam.asp

Festivals galore! scenes from Delhi....

October ushers in the season of festivals in India.....starting with Dussehra (here you see scenes from Durga puja celebrations by Bengalis), Divali or the festival of lights, Guru parab for Sikhs and ending with Christmas.




The image of the Mother Goddess Durga, is shown riding on a tiger while slaying the demon; she is surrounded by her four children. This is a community festival, so people gather to pray, while traditional drummers play (and dance to the rhythm) and finally, free lunch (called bhog, after it is offered to the deity) is served to all, irrespective of one's class or belief.

From God's own country!

Kerala is commonly referred to as "God's own country" for its scenic beauty...the handicrafts of the state are no less beautiful!






These are just a few of the items that I saw at the "Kairali" emporium in Bangalore (M.G.Road, adjacent to the Cottage Emporium). The manager, Mr.Anwar, is most helpful and gave me a lot of interesting snippets...however, I think the pictures say it all!






Walking into the shop (which is a step lower than ground level, and looks unassuming next to the Cottage Emporium) is like walking into a treasure trove!










There are exquisite carvings on sandalwood, traditional lamps and other items in brass, huge traditional hanging lamps, bags and household items of coir, traditional dancers and Onam boats, elephants with typical decorations....the list is endless.













If you walk in to buy a gift, you will not leave without buying a few for yourself
too!!

Back to the wild....yet again!

Divali was the ideal time to escape to the peace and beauty of the jungles--K.Gudi and Bandipur of course, as my friends know! So I will not repeat the details, but just give you brief account of the memorable 4 days! A comfortable Volvo bus to Mysore, then by cab to K.Gudi, to be given a warm welcome by our old friend, naturalist Lokesh. The time before lunch was spent enjoying the sight of a tusker Sriram being bathed in the adjacent pond! Soon, we met the manager Ashish, who had taken a group of visitors to see a local tribal village. It was interesting to hear that he is an engineer by profession, but shifted careers to pursue his passion--wildlife. He has a site, www.livingintothewild.com, dedicated to the wild denizens of K.Gudi! The safaris with Lokesh and Ashish were enjoyable as usual, though most of the animals stayed away, due to the steady and intermittent drizzle. Ashish and the veteran driver, Thapa (who I mentioned in the last post) showed us a number of bird species on the big gulmohur tree in the resort. On the second day, Lokesh took us to the Ranganathaswamy temple atop the hill, the Soliga tribal village and the medicinal plants nursery adjacent to the forest department office. It was an immensely enriching day--and very encouraging to see the progress in the village. The 2 nights at K.Gudi passed all too soon, and we set off for Bandipur, where the rain dogged our footsteps! This time we stayed at the Bison cottage, the last one on the edge, and enjoyed the solitude. Once again, we met Sunita Dhairam, who I've written about earlier, (and who had painted the bison, apart from the other cottages!) and were once again awestruck by the incredible service she does for humans and animals alike. The safaris with Basavanna were enjoyable, though here too the animals chose to remain invisible, except the most gorgeous peacock, who remained motionless as our jeep stopped next to him! The other interesting episode Basavanna releasing a cobra near the dam; he had caught it earlier near his home! The 2 days again passed too soon, and we were back at Mysore, boarding a bus back to the chaotic and drab city. Till the next trip!